The basic or foundation patterns often drafted are bodice, skirt and sleeve. These are called blocks. They are drafted to the exact size of the body. They can then be adapted or modified to any desired style.
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Uses of patterns in garment construction
- Pattern are used to direct or guide the cutting of fabric
- They prevent serious mistakes in dress making
- They prevent waste of time in dress making
- They prevent waste of fabric
- They make sewing easy
- They reduce trial and error in sewing
TYPES OF PATTERNS
There are basically two types of patterns. The drafted and the commercial patterns.
DRAFTED PATTERNS: This is made to fit a particular person. A person’s body measurements are first taken. Then the pattern is drafted to fit his/her size.
ADVANTAGES OF DRAFTED PATTERN
- It can be made to fit a person perfectly.
- It can be adapted to any type of style.
- It is cheaper than commercial pattern
- It can help to check the fit of a design before it is made into a garment.
- It is original, therefore can be unique.
- It does not require alteration.
DISADVANTAGES OF DRAFTED PATTERN
- It can only be useful to one person, the owner.
- Pattern drafting requires special skill.
COMMERCIAL PATTERNS: these are designed and made by experts to fit standard figure types using specific body measurements. They are available in different sizes. They are sold in special pattern envelopes. They can be found in big shops. examples are “vogue”, “new look”, “simplicity”, “butterick”, “style”, “advance” e.t.c.
ADVANTAGES OF COMMERCIAL PATTERN
- They make sewing easy and accurate to body measurements.
- They are made in many different styles and designs
- They have instruction sheets which show how to lay out, cut the fabric and make up the garment.
- Each pattern envelop contains information on the type and quality of fabric needed. 5. It also states the sewing notions (such as zip or button) needed.
- It saves time and reduce mistakes in garment making.
DISADVANTAGES OF COMMERCIAL PATTERN
- They are expensive
- They are not easily or readily available
- They often require alteration or adjustment to fit the user’s size
- They are light and can tear easily.
PATTERN MARKINGS AND SYMBOLS
Commercial patterns always have different types of markings and symbols. These show the dress makers how to use the patterns in making garments. The marks should also be made in the drafted patterns. The pattern marking and symbols include the following;
- Straight grain Straight grain of fabric
- Place to fold On fold of fabric
- Darts Darts
- Notches Notches
- Stitching line
- Cutting line
- Seam allowance.
Taking body measurements
Tools for taking body measurements are:
- Tape measure; for measuring on the body
- Pencil; for writing down the measurements
- Paper; for recording the measurements
- A string; to be tied around the natural waistline.
GUIDELINES FOR TAKING BODY MEASUREMENTS
- Take measurements over close-fitting garments or under garment. Wear flat shoes.
- For accurate measurements, let a friend/classmate take your body measurements for you.
- Measure accurately.
- Record each measurement as soon as it is made.
- Use a tape measure that does not stretch.
- Pull the tape so that it is snug but not too tight
- Stand well when taking body measurements.
Basic body measurements
Important measurements needed for making simple garment are:
- Bust: round the fullest part of the chest
- Waist: round the smallest part of the trunk
- Hip: round the largest part of the body below the waist
- length of back bodice
- Skirt length
- Across the chest.
- Sleeve length
- Length of back (bodice)
- Shirt length
- Across back
- Across the chest
Pattern Drafting Tools and their uses
- Tape measure; for measuring on the paper
- A metre for drawing lines
- Pencil; drawing lines and writing on the drafted paper
- French curve for shaping curved areas
- Paper scissors; for cutting the drafting paper
- Eraser for cleaning wrong lines or drawings
- Brown paper; patterns are made on paper.
- State 4 uses of pattern drafting
- State 3 advantages of commercial pattern and 4 advantages of drafted pattern
Assignment: Draft a basic bodice for your self